People who know me know that I am a little less excited about Australian wine than others seem to be (he says showing a complete mastery of understatement). While this may surprise some people, it is not that unusual for a person with my experience in this business. In fact it is the very characteristics of most Australian wine that appeals to John Q. Public that turns me and other grizzled veterans off; especially when we talk about Shiraz. Most of these wines are just too sweet and terminally lack structure. “Loads of jammy fruit” is the code phrase for me to hightail it in the opposite direction. So imagine my surprise when I tasted not one but two remarkable wines from down under in a recent tasting. Honestly, if there were more beautifully structured wines like this from Australia I would be a big fan. I doubt that will happen, but in the mean time these two are well worth mentioning:
West Cape Howe Chardonnay “Styx Gulley,” Western Australia- The first thing that greets you when you put the glass to your nose is the rich smell of toasted barrel. Thankfully, though, it is a fully integrated aroma that does not overpower. The palate rewards you with focused, dry Chardonnay fruit of a very forthright nature. More to the style of Burgundy, the overall impression is of an extremely well-crafted wine that is a stone-cold value at $20.69/btl. Highly recommended!
Picardy Pinot Noir, Western Australia- Never, ever did I expect to taste Pinot from Australia this focused and balanced. Undeniably in the Burgundy style, this beautifully made wine features earthy terroir in the nose and elegant balance on the palate. This is one of the few wines made outside of Burgundy that captures the true essence of Pinot Noir – a great value at $32.84/btl.
prices subject to change without notice.
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