Thursday, February 21, 2008

File under W for wood. Spanish wines by Philip Bernot

Spain is the largest user of American oak in the production of wines, and if you are a fan of sweet American oak, here's a group you will love.
Note: This article falls under the category of "we taste a lot more then we can stock," so there is a very good chance we don't have all of these selections in stock:

Azabache Reserva 2001, Rioja~ 70%Tempronillo, 30% Graciano, we have stocked the lesser expensive version of this wine in the past, which I felt was a very good value. The Reserva is undoubtedly a better wine, but the less expensive wine is actually a little more user-friendly. Good stuff, but not my favorite of this very good group.

Castell de les Pinyeres 2003, Monsant~ Probably the softest and easiest to drink of the group, this wine is 45% Grenache, 30% Carignan, 10% Merlot, 10% Cabernet, and 5% Tempronillo. Apparently the kitchen sink didn't ripen fully, or I would have expected a small percentage of that too! I liked this wine for its forward nature and woody underpinnings, but ultimately it is not terribly complex; surprising when you look at the blend. Solid, but not spectacular.


Emina 2005, Ribero del Duero~ This wine is part of the "GRUPO MATARROMERA," a complex of wineries, a restaurant, a for-rent country house, and something called a "wine interpretation center." This wine is 100% Tinta del pais, or "country red grape;" my understanding is this term is the local vernacular for Tempronillo. Twelve months in a combination of American and French oak yields a dark and rich wine with a decidedly woody finish. The winery web site says this wine ". . . goes well with red meats, roasts, cheese and blue fish." I'm not sure if "blue fish" is the same as Bluefish, but while I can see the wine working with hot-smoked Bluefish, the idea of serving this with a grilled Bluefish fillet kind of makes me ill. Solid and enjoyable wine.

Emina "Prestigio" 2005, Ribera del Duero~ I frequently find "reserve" wines of this type to be a little too much of everything, often obliterating the subtle charms of a given wine in exchange for more oak & tannin. Not so here, "Prestigio" actually has more richly integrated fruit than the standard blend. That's no doubt because the wine is aged in 100% French Alliers oak for 16 months; no American oak. Before I am accused of being a Francophile (again!), the old stands of European oak have a much tighter grain then their American cousins, which impart less sweet woody vanillin's to the wine. The upside of this is the natural fruit of the wine can show through, and the overall structure of Prestigio is much more balanced than the regular blend. Very good wine, this one.

Matarromera Crianza 2004, Ribero del Duero~ There is a lot of world class wine made in the Ribera del Duero, some of the most famous and expensive wines in Spain come from this area. I honestly don't know whether this example is near the top of the heap or not; I just haven't tasted Vega Sicilia, Tinto Pesquera, etc. recently. I will say that I thought this wine was quite fine, exuding class and distinction throughout the flavor spectrum. Here the Tempronillo is aged in 100% American oak to very good results with the oak perfectly integrated into the overall structure. Superb wine with much to commend.

Galena 2004, Domani de la Cartoixa, Priorat~ While grapes have been grown in the Priorat since before Da Vinci doodled; the region is a relatively new wine producer in any real sense. Now some of Spain's best and most expensive wines hail from the rocky, inhospitable terrain. Garnacha negra (Grenache) 35%, Cabernet Sauvignon 25%, Merlot 25%, Cariñena (Carignan)15% aged 12 months in French(80%) and American(20%) oak yields a wine of intense concentration and weight, with a nicely integrated but prevalent oak finish. The big brother of this wine, Clos Galena, scores big points on the review circuit, and this wine is quite impressive as well.


Zarus Barrica, Ribera del Duero~ I often see people go ga-ga over wines that I consider to have fatal amounts of oak; and while not corrupted by oak, this wine is for folks who love the anesthetizing feel of wood on their tongue. A little surprising considering that this 100% Tempronillo wine sees only seven months in French & American oak. This wine defines the value quotient of Spanish red's as you can you can get this one for around twenty bucks. This wine is what I call a "crowd-pleaser," as long as the crowd is oak junkies!


I can honestly say that all of the above wines are quite good. If you are interested, stop by and see us & we will give you price & availabilty quotes.

Saturday, February 16, 2008

Do Terroirists hate our freedom? - Philip Bernot

Do Terroirists hate our freedom?

That is not a typo. “Terroir” is the French term used to define the specific characteristics of a given vineyard site, and it is in France that a group of wine fanatics who think soil is everything have come to be known as “terroirists.” Terroirists are everywhere, however; if anything the German system of rating vineyards is even more specific than the French. California has its share of terroirists, too. “Rutherford dust” is a well known term used to describe the dusty tannins found in the best Cabernet from the Rutherford bench in Napa. Entirely too much has been written about terroir, and heaven knows the term gets thrown around at tastings when nobody has anything more insightful to say. There are basically two views on terroir – one view is that true terroir is an elusive thing found in the very best wines of the world and is the defining trait; e.g. the soil of Champagne cannot be duplicated elsewhere, therefore no other sparkling wine can approach Champagne’s greatness. The other view is that since all vines are grown in dirt, all wine has terroir. Which is correct? Mmmm, both. Sure, all vines are grown in dirt, but some dirt is better than others. This leads me to point of this article. Talk about wine for more than five minutes and someone is sure to say something like “It’s all subjective, it’s all about what you like best.” It is, but it aint. Like anything worth studying, like art or music, there is much more to wine than just personal taste. The established great wines of the world are established for a very good reason. Over many decades or centuries certain places have shown that they make wine of superior quality. It doesn’t mean that everyone will prefer these wines, but it does mean that people who know about such things have noticed that some vineyard sites just make better wine than others. This kind of rubs Americans the wrong way; we tend to think all things are equal. Heck, it’s literally part of our constitution! It’s a nice thought, but the logic is faulty. The California wine business is predicated on the easy to understand but woefully unspecific “Varietal” system; the type of grape is on the label. But Chardonnay from Napa tastes quite different than Chardonnay from Sonoma, and from Monterey, etc. Frankly, just knowing that the wine is made from Chardonnay is not much help at all. The French system is quite different-you are supposed to already know that Chardonnay is the grape of white wines from Burgundy; the question is whether you want Meursault or Chablis, then more specifically whether it’s Meursault “Les Charmes” or Chablis “Vaudesir.” Logic and specificity is both the great strength and the great weakness of the French Appellation Controlee system.

So are these terroirists attacking our core values by asserting that some places are better than others for the production of superior wine? Strangely, some people seem to think so. People love to believe that you can get a little plot of land, clear some brush, plant some vines and win some medals. But think about this – a trip through the cellars the worlds foremost wine critic (you know who I’m talking about) might surprise you. What are missing are many of the highly-rated new world and “buzz” wines. What is in the cellars of the top critic and other experts? Wines that completely define the place on earth where they are made. Here are four that fit that description:



A quartet from Shaps & Roucher-Sarrazin:

It should go without saying that we taste a lot of wine around here, but I’m going to say it anyway-we taste a lot of wine around here. I’m not complaining, but it’s usually much closer to work than you might imagine. Sometimes, though, it’s nothing but a pleasure -like this quartet from Burgundy producer Shaps & Roucher-Sarrazin. Burgundy is frequently the “it” place for serious wine people, and with this group it’s easy to see why. Michael Shaps, an American from Virginia, has teamed with Michel Roucher-Sarrazin of Burgundy, France, to make wines of great distinction. Winemaker Roucher-Sarrazin’s work should be well-known to Burgundy aficionados already having made wine at the now defunct Chartron et Trebuchet. And like his best efforts at C et T, the Shaps & Roucher–Sarrazin wines exude class and style.
One note: we taste a lot more wine than we can ever stock and we currently do not stock these wines. We will be happy to order them, however, and will no doubt add them to our line-up at a later date.

Meursault “Les Vireuils” 2005- Don’t ask me for pronunciation help on this, I think the word “Vireuils” could be used as a litmus test as to whether you are a native French speaker. This wine was remarkably forward with an intense nose of honeycomb and bee pollen. The palate is replete with minerality and focused acids. A fairly remarkable value in this space with the wine retailing around $60.

Meursault “Les Charmes” 2005- A total classic, the Les Charmes is silky-fine; sort of what it must be like to drink a Hermes tie. Winemaker Roucher-Sarrazin really has a way of coaxing out subtle and elegant flavors, and the wine exhibits apple, pear, and clove on the nose. The finish is longer than a night in jail with superb balanced acidity. If you can think of $110/bottle of wine as a value, this is it.

Volnay “Les Santenots” 2005- If Burgundy is the “it” place for wine aficionados, Volnay may be the “it” place in Burgundy. The nose exhibits gorgeous cherry and raspberry notes, but it is the tremendous depth, complexity, and style that set this wine apart. The average age of the vine here is about fifty years, so the concentration and elegance should be no surprise. Superb Pinot Noir! About $75

Nuits St. Georges 2005- This wine surprised me. By all rights this should be very, very good, but not great wine, at least not by standards of the Volnay. But this example was flat-out yummy and actually a little easier to relate to than the Volnay at this time. Very rich and complete with deep, focused acidity and earthy Pinot Noir aromas. Around $65

All of these wines will reward the patient buyers who tuck them away for a few years. If drinking them young give them plenty of time to breathe. The reds did not really start to hit their impressive stride until they had been open about 8 hours.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Easter Wines - from Philip Bernot

Easter is right around the corner, and the foods served at this meal require us to get out of our comfort zone a little bit. Please, please, please – low acid, overly-oaked Chardonnay is a really poor choice for this holiday. Most Easter meals revolve around a culinary dynamic duo-Ham & Lamb. Great! Love ‘em both! Here are notes on few things I have tasted that are great choices for the Easter meal:

Reds
Chateau de Basty Règniè, France- When I tasted this wine one thought came immediately to mind-Southern Maryland Stuffed Ham! Règniè is “Cru” Beaujolais, and made from the Gamay grape. Cru Beaujolais is from one of the ten designated vineyard sites in the Beaujolais region that have proven over time to be both distinctive and of excellent quality. Règniè is the newest of the Cru’s, being elevated to this status in 1988 after an exhaustive study (the French take their wine very seriously). The wine is medium-bodied, with the classic sweet/tart flavor and chalky, bracing acidity typical of Gamay. It should be served cool to coax out the best flavors. Give it plenty time to breathe; I found the wine to taste very good after being opened two full days! $17.98

Domaine Clavel “Garrigues,” France- I’m crazy about the wines from Domaine Clavel. They are superb values and represent an authentic taste of Southern France. The wine is medium-full, with a complex nose favoring the herbs that run rampant in the Languedoc region. The blend is Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah, and is especially suited to roasted leg of lamb with rosemary. $15.50

Domaine Geoffrenet-Moraval “Extra Version” Chateaumeillant – You seriously need to stop what you are doing, RIGHT NOW, get down here, and buy this wine. A blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Gamay from central France, this wine put a smile on my face that is still there three days later! Light-medium body and a superb, balanced palate of fruit and acidity. Tasting this wine reminded of when I first met my Cocker Spaniel when she was a teeny pup- it was love at first site! Don’t even think about getting just one bottle. $21.14

Rosé
Chateau du Roquefort “Corail”, France- I’m a little surprised, but even after the 8 billion or so words written about the joy of rosé wine the last couple of years, many of our customers are still deeply suspicious of rosé. I blame White Zinfandel. Ch. du Roquefort is disarmingly delicious and belongs on your short list of enjoyable rosé. A blend of five grape varieties from a tiny, biodynamic property, this is the ticket for Easter ham. $14.39

White

Dr. Loosen Riesling, Germany – Look up “textbook Riesling” in the dictionary; you will see a picture of this wine. Yes, it is a little sweet, but that is not a crime. Our best selling Riesling-for a very good reason. $11.99

Massarosa Frascati Superiore, Italy- Just because 90% of Frascati isn’t worth the effort it takes to pour it down the drain doesn’t mean the other 10% isn’t worth drinking! This delicious example is one of the most versatile white wines we carry. Grown and produced in Latium, just outside of Rome, this pretty wine has great aromatics and is fresh and lively; a perfect match to fresh herbs. Nobody does Easter like the Italians! $13.91

Other good choices are Grenache-based wines from Spain or Australia, dry rose from France or California, and Pinot Noir from your favorite locale.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Welcome from Philip Bernot, Chief Bacchanalian Coordinator

Hey Puppies!



We created this blog to share our thoughts with our wonderful customers. Speaking for myself, I will be posting mostly tasting notes and random thoughts. We will probably not go in to great detail here, more like some quick notes on interesting wines and such. Hopefully this will be helpful to all you grape-nutz out there! Without further ado . . .



Two wines I tasted recently that made me smile (We will be stocking these wines soon, near the end of Feb.):



Hop Kiln "Big Red" - It was in 1981 that I made one of my first visits to a winery, Hop Kiln in Healdsburg, Sonoma, California. The iconic building, a historic landmark, obviously owes it heritage to beer, but a hop-fungus wiped out that business in the 50's. The ranch had been around since mid-1800's, so naturally they moved on to another agriculture product. This is a beautiful property, located in the Russian River Valley. I am not used to being taken aback by these inexpensive field blends, especially from a non-vintage wine, but I am very impressed by this offering. What set this wine apart was it's impeccable structure; classic California - definitely not a "fruit-bomb." I'm tearing-up just a little because this wine reminds me of Old California, which is my home, not the adult Disneyland of today's Napa Valley. The wine is a blend of Zin, Carignan, Syrah, etc., but all you really need to know is that it's delish! http://www.hopkilnwinery.com/ Under $20.



David Hill "Farm House White" - Another non-vintage blend, this time from Oregon. Farm House White is a perfect picnic wine, delicious fruit, rich aromatics, and a slightlly off-dry finish. Grapes for wine production have been grown on this property since the late 1800's, but the new owners have been here since 1992. I know it's Chardonnay (yawn!) that most people like to talk about, but I simply loved this unassuming but rewarding wine. Farmhouse White is a blend of Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Semillon, Chardonnay and Riesling; perfect with asian cusine, especially Thai! http://www.davidhillwinery.com/index.html About $15.

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

The Brewy Decimal System

We just reshuffled the beer cooler for the billionth (and last) time. Beer is the ugly stepchild in our business, but it shouldn't be. Brewing dates back to pre-history, and the variety and subtlety found in beer is probably exceeded only by that of wine and chocolate.

We've always thought that we should treat beer with the same respect as our other products. And while we've always maintained an informal system of organization that attempted to keep similar beers together in the cooler, we've finally formalized that system.

Enquiring beer minds will now notice the shiny signs at the top of each cooler door. We've segregated our beer into eight categories, as follows: Light Lager; American Lager; Pilsner & Wheat Beer; European Lager; Pale Ale; Ale; Dark Ale; and Fruit Grenades.

Each category contains a brief explanation of these beer types, which I won't include here because that will just make it easier for our competitors to steal yet another of our awesome, revolutionary booze marketing ideas.

The point of the signs is to help our customers to educate themselves, and to expand their beer horizons. Life is way too short to be boring, people. Let's all live a little ! - Ned Blugman

Friday, February 8, 2008

Welcome to Blog O' The Dog

Thanks for finding us. We've created this spot as a place for the daily epiphanies that occur to us as we do our daily thing here in the Booze Game. Here you'll find tasting notes on some of the over 1,000 wines we taste every year, as well as our thoughts on subjects ranging from critter wines to biodynamics to small batch bourbons and craft brews. We'll also provide colorful travelblogs of our entirely tax-deductible trips to strange lands.

For the same kinda crap, but in longer format, please visit our website. If you want to interact with us, that's what our email is for. We look forward to hearing from you.

Ned Blugman, Publisher