Burgundy: Heaven on earth or labyrinth of Hell?

Catchy title, heh? The region of Burgundy, home to the finest expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir on the planet, is a remarkably frustrating place. There is no question that the best wines from this place are in the top percentile of the world’s great wines. Many critics, collectors, enthusiasts, etc. would say these are the finest wines available. You will get no argument from me. The sight, smell, and sensation of a great Volnay or Grands Echezeaux moving around in your glass is just different than other wine, even other great wine. It’s hard to put your finger on exactly why, and I think that is the point. There is a certain indefinable quality to these wines. Yet there can also be no question that this region has its share of common, often expensive, wines. How does the buyer know what to expect? Burgundy is like buying real estate in a foreign country; local knowledge is everything. You definitely want to do your homework on who the best importers are; they are the people that do the heavy lifting. How frustrating is it for importers? This story gives us an idea- Daniel Haas, second generation American importer of fine wines under the Vineyard Brands label, told me the story of working with a renowned producer of great and expensive wines. Upon the retirement of the Father vineyard sites were divided between two sons. Since I believe there is no direct French equivalent for the phrase “team-player,” a fairly predictable thing happened. Each son set up shop in different caves (wine facilities) and set about making the same wine from the same place - twice. Now when Danny wants to visit this producer to taste and negotiate, he has to do so twice. If you have ever negotiated with a recalcitrant and wily Burgundian it is not something you would want to do twice for the same result. The French are all about art and there is no question that they have raised the family feud to an art-form. Burgundy is rife with fathers that don’t speak to sons, brothers that don’t speak to brothers and even a few women whom nobody speaks to. Add to that that many of these people have the same last name and you can see the problem. And the vineyards themselves? A complete patchwork of individual owners, farmers, and producers exists. It is not uncommon for a small vineyard to have six or more interested parties working the vines, each with their own vine management techniques. Individual rows of vines are owned or leased, meaning your neighbor may own the vines six feet from yours. There are also many different types of producers, from farmers who sell their grapes and make no wine, to small producers who make wine only from vines they own, to large “negociant” houses that purchase most of the fruit they use. And of course there is the vintage.

So why bother with all of this complexity? It’s all in the bottle. There is nothing on earth like the experience of a great Burgundy, and even a good Burgundy can be a real eye-opener. Look on the label for information about the importer. The best importers have long-term relationships with their producers. And of course, develop a relationship with a wine merchant who understands the area. Last, when drinking Burgundy, give it your full attention. These wines are about subtlety and style; if you are multi-tasking while sipping Montrachet I guarantee you are missing the elements that make Burgundy “The wine of Kings.”

Importers to look for: Vineyard Brands, Vintage ’59 Imports, Jeanne-Marie Champs, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Wilson-Daniels, and many others.