Valentine's Day is typically a virtual non-event for us, with sales being about the same as any other day in February. We've always figured that while there was likely a lot of wine consumed on Valentine's Day, most of that consuming was occurring in restaurants. Either that, or we're idiots who don't know how to market Valentine's Day, which is also a distinct possibility.
Then along came this year. We were inundated with customers, and easily had our busiest weekend of the year. Why? Sure, we had beautiful women pouring wine and sampling aphrodisiac truffles for customers. And since I'm married to one of those women, I'd be wise to pass along some credit. (Love ya, baby!)
But I think that this lovely recession that's been looting our lifestyles may have something to do with it. A restaurateur friend recently told us that business was down about 25-30% from last year. Ouch. I'm working on the theory that couples bought wine at retail this year because cooking dinner at home with your Valentine is a less expensive option than going out.
The teensy, shrinking hopeful part of me is hoping that maybe, unlike that cranky, ground-dwelling Punxsutawney Phil, the fine citizens of our town, having survived the cold, hard winter, are starting to sniff around outside their burrows. I'm hopeful that, unlike Phil, they will feel the warming sun on their faces and decide that spending is just around the corner.
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Thursday, January 1, 2009
Reflections on 2008
We don't get a lot of chances to blog during the holiday season, mostly because we're busy as Shiite. On the peak days leading up to Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Eve, we're seeing hundreds of customers daily. Even on days when the stores aren't teeming with customers, we're placing orders for the 1,500 items that we carry, receiving and getting them out onto the shelves. It's a crazy six weeks or so.
One of the things that's interesting about the holidays is that, in addition to our beloved regulars, who we see throughout the year, we see a lot of new customers - many of whom are in our stores for the first time. Since these Dog newbies aren't up to speed on what we do, nearly all of them have questions.
The most frequent question we get is [picture a customer holding up a bottle of wine] "Is this any good?" We must admit to always being surprised at this question, as it seems readily apparent to us that we wouldn't be selling something that we don't think is any good. But upon reflection, we realize that there isn't anyone actually tasting the products at the grocery stores, or even (sadly) at most liquor stores.
And this brings us back to what I like to think of as the two distinct Philosophies of Business, the predominant one being what I call the Spider Web Philosophy.
Spider Webbers see consumers simply as a huge collective beast that needs products and services. Webbers focus their business efforts on placing sales outlets in the best locations possible, just as spiders build their webs in places where they believe there will be lots of insect air traffic. The underlying premise is "I sell widgets. I'll put my widget store where lots o' people pass by, and they'll buy my widgets."
It's a fine philosophy, and it works well for a lot of merchants. Think of just about every chain store on the planet, and you see this theory at work.
But we are adherents to the minority philosphy, which I'll call the Build a Better Mousetrap School. We believe that the most desirable customers are those who will overlook mere convenience in a quest for something better. These folks want variety, information, a pleasant environment, and real service. They want to be challenged, and they want to grow. These are the customers we're targeting.
Do we have customers who reliably come in every week and buy the same thing? Sure, in many cases because we're simply the most convenient store for them. But we like to think that the reason that we've been successful is that we concentrate on doing things in order to make them better for you, rather than easier for us.
This is why we organize our wines according to flavor profiles rather than just by country of origin. It's why we offer so many specialty beers and spirits. It's why we take the time to write a card describing each of our hundreds of wines. Heck, we even organize our beer by flavor profile.
2008 was a challenging year in our business, but it was our best year ever. We know that more challenges await us in 2009, and we're ready for them. Thanks so much for your business.
One of the things that's interesting about the holidays is that, in addition to our beloved regulars, who we see throughout the year, we see a lot of new customers - many of whom are in our stores for the first time. Since these Dog newbies aren't up to speed on what we do, nearly all of them have questions.
The most frequent question we get is [picture a customer holding up a bottle of wine] "Is this any good?" We must admit to always being surprised at this question, as it seems readily apparent to us that we wouldn't be selling something that we don't think is any good. But upon reflection, we realize that there isn't anyone actually tasting the products at the grocery stores, or even (sadly) at most liquor stores.
And this brings us back to what I like to think of as the two distinct Philosophies of Business, the predominant one being what I call the Spider Web Philosophy.
Spider Webbers see consumers simply as a huge collective beast that needs products and services. Webbers focus their business efforts on placing sales outlets in the best locations possible, just as spiders build their webs in places where they believe there will be lots of insect air traffic. The underlying premise is "I sell widgets. I'll put my widget store where lots o' people pass by, and they'll buy my widgets."
It's a fine philosophy, and it works well for a lot of merchants. Think of just about every chain store on the planet, and you see this theory at work.
But we are adherents to the minority philosphy, which I'll call the Build a Better Mousetrap School. We believe that the most desirable customers are those who will overlook mere convenience in a quest for something better. These folks want variety, information, a pleasant environment, and real service. They want to be challenged, and they want to grow. These are the customers we're targeting.
Do we have customers who reliably come in every week and buy the same thing? Sure, in many cases because we're simply the most convenient store for them. But we like to think that the reason that we've been successful is that we concentrate on doing things in order to make them better for you, rather than easier for us.
This is why we organize our wines according to flavor profiles rather than just by country of origin. It's why we offer so many specialty beers and spirits. It's why we take the time to write a card describing each of our hundreds of wines. Heck, we even organize our beer by flavor profile.
2008 was a challenging year in our business, but it was our best year ever. We know that more challenges await us in 2009, and we're ready for them. Thanks so much for your business.
Thursday, December 4, 2008
December 5th should be a National Holiday
Why should December 5th be remembered you ask! Yes, it is Joe’s birthday but it’s more important then that. I say it is more important then your anniversary, your husband or wife’s birthday, your mother’s birthday, maybe even more important then your own birthday…it is repeal day!
Repeal Day, repeal of what? On December 5th, 1933, Utah, the final state needed for a ¾ majority, ratified the 21st Amendment, repealing Prohibition. This act restored the rights of “Joe Six-Pack” to purchase and enjoy a drink!
Prohibition was put into effect by the ratification of the 18th Amendment on January 16, 1919. It prohibited the manufacturing, sale, transportation, or exportation of “intoxicating liquors” in the United States and all of its territories.
Congress proposed the 21st Amendment on February 20, 1933. The Amendment was ratified by the required ¾ states majority on December 5, 1933.
It would be nice if, some time in my life, this date was celebrated in this country but for now I am content in informing the customers of the Hair O’ the Dog of its importance. The nice thing about this holiday is it only entails stopping by your local bar or HAIR O’ THE DOG, picking up your favorite “intoxicating liquors” and having a drink, just because you can! By the way, while you’re there wish Joe a happy birthday!
Nastrovia,
Brian (the beer guy)
Repeal Day, repeal of what? On December 5th, 1933, Utah, the final state needed for a ¾ majority, ratified the 21st Amendment, repealing Prohibition. This act restored the rights of “Joe Six-Pack” to purchase and enjoy a drink!
Prohibition was put into effect by the ratification of the 18th Amendment on January 16, 1919. It prohibited the manufacturing, sale, transportation, or exportation of “intoxicating liquors” in the United States and all of its territories.
Congress proposed the 21st Amendment on February 20, 1933. The Amendment was ratified by the required ¾ states majority on December 5, 1933.
It would be nice if, some time in my life, this date was celebrated in this country but for now I am content in informing the customers of the Hair O’ the Dog of its importance. The nice thing about this holiday is it only entails stopping by your local bar or HAIR O’ THE DOG, picking up your favorite “intoxicating liquors” and having a drink, just because you can! By the way, while you’re there wish Joe a happy birthday!
Nastrovia,
Brian (the beer guy)
Thursday, October 23, 2008
Getting the Fun Back...
Call this a mea culpa, if you must. We've come to the painful realization that while we were out there trying to grow the empire, the Dog had become a less fun place to be. Some customers complained that our in-store service was sporadically snooty, snobbish and off-putting. This is totally unacceptable to us.
We started this business with the intention that it would always be a fun, clean, inviting place where folks would be comfortable hanging around, whether they were wine savants, beer enthusiasts, or someone who is just starting to discover the breadth and beauty of adult beverages.
So we've made some changes. Joe and I are back from the Crusades of Commerce, and we're directly managing in the stores again. Leeanne, who has graciously bounced from store to store for us, has become an accomplished wine buyer, and is developing a growing cult following.. The staff - Brian, Wendy, Shawn, Martha and Matt - are top notch. Ignore the fact that I'm writing this at 5:30 in the morning when I say that we don't lose a minute of sleep when they are taking care of you in the stores.
Today we are announcing a new partnership with Laurie Forster, better known as The Wine Coach. Sorry, Laurie, I can't make that cool (R) registered trademark symbol on the blog. Laurie is joining the Dog team with a title to-be-determined. We've bandied Lifestyle and Event Specialist, but I'm not sure that fits on a business card. In any case, Laurie is going to be helping us to make this place more funnerer, more customer-friendly, and better.
We've worked with Laurie occasionally for the past few years, and we've always appreciated her goal of de-mystifying wine. Many, many people are still intimidated by the supposed vast amount of knowledge necessary to understand wine, and Laurie's done a great job of lobbing a huge lawn dart of reason into the big balloon of bombast about wine. (It may be early, but my metaphor gland is apparently functioning.) We welcome her assistance.
We're also bringing back more store events, from Darting for Discounts this Friday night to more in-store tastings. We're working to expand The Poop and the web site. Soon we will also be cross-marketing events with Coffee East as well. More on that later.
Thanks for your business.
We started this business with the intention that it would always be a fun, clean, inviting place where folks would be comfortable hanging around, whether they were wine savants, beer enthusiasts, or someone who is just starting to discover the breadth and beauty of adult beverages.
So we've made some changes. Joe and I are back from the Crusades of Commerce, and we're directly managing in the stores again. Leeanne, who has graciously bounced from store to store for us, has become an accomplished wine buyer, and is developing a growing cult following.. The staff - Brian, Wendy, Shawn, Martha and Matt - are top notch. Ignore the fact that I'm writing this at 5:30 in the morning when I say that we don't lose a minute of sleep when they are taking care of you in the stores.
Today we are announcing a new partnership with Laurie Forster, better known as The Wine Coach. Sorry, Laurie, I can't make that cool (R) registered trademark symbol on the blog. Laurie is joining the Dog team with a title to-be-determined. We've bandied Lifestyle and Event Specialist, but I'm not sure that fits on a business card. In any case, Laurie is going to be helping us to make this place more funnerer, more customer-friendly, and better.
We've worked with Laurie occasionally for the past few years, and we've always appreciated her goal of de-mystifying wine. Many, many people are still intimidated by the supposed vast amount of knowledge necessary to understand wine, and Laurie's done a great job of lobbing a huge lawn dart of reason into the big balloon of bombast about wine. (It may be early, but my metaphor gland is apparently functioning.) We welcome her assistance.
We're also bringing back more store events, from Darting for Discounts this Friday night to more in-store tastings. We're working to expand The Poop and the web site. Soon we will also be cross-marketing events with Coffee East as well. More on that later.
Thanks for your business.
Monday, October 20, 2008
Status Report: The Big Sale
We're nearing the end of Day One of The Big Sale. It's been great to see everyone come out and get some tremendous deals on wine and spirits, all of which we're selling for 99 cents over our wholesale cost today and tomorrow. We estimate that customers have already saved nearly $10,000 with today's deep discounts.
A lot of people are interested in the question of why we do it. Every time we have the sale, some folks think that we're circling the drain. Umm, no. We have the sale (a) because it's fun; (b) to reward our fantastic customers for their support throughout the year; and (c) to blow out seasonal wine inventory so that we can replace it with new stock.
We only announce The Big Sale by email, which is reason enough to subscribe to The Poop, our extremely awe-inspiring monthly newsletter. In addition to stunning beverage revelations, hilarious high-brow humor, poorly-altered photos, and the occasional totally fictitious feature, you'll get coupons, advance warning of special events, and a healthy dose of savoir-faire.
A lot of people are interested in the question of why we do it. Every time we have the sale, some folks think that we're circling the drain. Umm, no. We have the sale (a) because it's fun; (b) to reward our fantastic customers for their support throughout the year; and (c) to blow out seasonal wine inventory so that we can replace it with new stock.
We only announce The Big Sale by email, which is reason enough to subscribe to The Poop, our extremely awe-inspiring monthly newsletter. In addition to stunning beverage revelations, hilarious high-brow humor, poorly-altered photos, and the occasional totally fictitious feature, you'll get coupons, advance warning of special events, and a healthy dose of savoir-faire.
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
Drinking Age to Back to 18?
An item in this morning's news: A group of college presidents are advocating a national debate on the merits of lowering the drinking age to 18. You might think that we'd be all in favor of this, as it would add hundreds of new potential Top Dogs to the marketplace. You might also think that we'd recoil in horror at the idea, so as not to offend the Puritans. The smarter money says that we should just shut up and see how it pans out.
However, this is a complex issue that deserves some debate. Proponents of lowering the drinking age are correct when they argue that since the law starts assigning adult responsibilities to us at 18, it should also convey adult rights. That's a good point. If 20-year old corporals climbing out of foxholes in Afghanistan don't deserve a beer, who does?
Proponents also argue that in most of the rest of the world - where the drinking age is 18 or even lower - youth alcohol abuse is not as big a problem as it is here. Another good point. By demonizing alcohol, it's possible that our society makes it more desireable to those to whom it is forbidden, sort of like getting some chemical strange.
On the other hand, we've got kids. We know how reckless they can be at 18, and that they're less so at 21. As a society, we're probably doing them a favor by asking them to wait until they're 21 to drink alcohol. While fake IDs and older friends certainly lead to a significant amount of underage drinking on college campuses, lowering the drinking age to 18 means that this action shifts from colleges to high schools, and that's just not a good thing.
So what's our position? As with any political issue, we'd be idiots to take one. We're a business, and the customers of many political stripes who buy from us are the ones enabling us to send our own kids to college. However, we'd like to see some consistency in how our society defines adulthood. Does it occur at 18, or at 21?
If it's 18, then let those young adults buy alcohol. If it's 21, then let's not let them sign up to climb into foxholes in Afghanistan until they're old enough both to appreciate the risk they're taking, and to have a beer when they climb out.
And while we're having the debate, can someone please explain to me why we allow 18-year olds to buy tobacco?
However, this is a complex issue that deserves some debate. Proponents of lowering the drinking age are correct when they argue that since the law starts assigning adult responsibilities to us at 18, it should also convey adult rights. That's a good point. If 20-year old corporals climbing out of foxholes in Afghanistan don't deserve a beer, who does?
Proponents also argue that in most of the rest of the world - where the drinking age is 18 or even lower - youth alcohol abuse is not as big a problem as it is here. Another good point. By demonizing alcohol, it's possible that our society makes it more desireable to those to whom it is forbidden, sort of like getting some chemical strange.
On the other hand, we've got kids. We know how reckless they can be at 18, and that they're less so at 21. As a society, we're probably doing them a favor by asking them to wait until they're 21 to drink alcohol. While fake IDs and older friends certainly lead to a significant amount of underage drinking on college campuses, lowering the drinking age to 18 means that this action shifts from colleges to high schools, and that's just not a good thing.
So what's our position? As with any political issue, we'd be idiots to take one. We're a business, and the customers of many political stripes who buy from us are the ones enabling us to send our own kids to college. However, we'd like to see some consistency in how our society defines adulthood. Does it occur at 18, or at 21?
If it's 18, then let those young adults buy alcohol. If it's 21, then let's not let them sign up to climb into foxholes in Afghanistan until they're old enough both to appreciate the risk they're taking, and to have a beer when they climb out.
And while we're having the debate, can someone please explain to me why we allow 18-year olds to buy tobacco?
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Well, here it is....
my first Blog O' The Dog.
I'm a beer guy, as most of the readers of this blog probably already know.
I brew my own beer, I try EVERY new beer I can find (Some I love, most I like, and only 1 I hated), I read as many books and magazines as I can find about beer, I visit a brewery just about every time I travel....and I still can not understand how some people NEVER try new things!
To me, it would be like saying I love peanut butter and grape jelly sandwiches on white bread and never trying anything else for lunch, ever! Sure, some people might try 1 or 2 other beers but that's only like having that PB&J on toast or with strawberry jam.
The point I'm trying to get across here is there are 34 different brewpubs and microbreweries in Maryland alone (check out the list here; http://brewpubzone.com/States/Maryland.html). That link will give you the address, email, website, reviews, and even a map to all 34.
Check out them out. You never know - you might like a grilled Reuben for lunch every now and then!
Nastrovia,
Brian
aka-the beer guy
I'm a beer guy, as most of the readers of this blog probably already know.
I brew my own beer, I try EVERY new beer I can find (Some I love, most I like, and only 1 I hated), I read as many books and magazines as I can find about beer, I visit a brewery just about every time I travel....and I still can not understand how some people NEVER try new things!
To me, it would be like saying I love peanut butter and grape jelly sandwiches on white bread and never trying anything else for lunch, ever! Sure, some people might try 1 or 2 other beers but that's only like having that PB&J on toast or with strawberry jam.
The point I'm trying to get across here is there are 34 different brewpubs and microbreweries in Maryland alone (check out the list here; http://brewpubzone.com/States/Maryland.html). That link will give you the address, email, website, reviews, and even a map to all 34.
Check out them out. You never know - you might like a grilled Reuben for lunch every now and then!
Nastrovia,
Brian
aka-the beer guy
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Fasten your seatbelts! ~ Philip Bernot
In what must be one of the most frequently misquoted lines from a classic movie, Bette Davis, as aging diva Margo Channing in "All about Eve", proclaims “Fasten your seatbelts, its going to be a bumpy ride!” The actual line is “bumpy night,” and no doubt ranks second to “Play it again, Sam” as the most famous line never said. All that aside, the message is correct-it is about to get a lot bumpier for wine enthusiasts everywhere. I just got word that one of my favorite importers is dropping two French producers due to large price increases. We have carried wines from each of these producers and loved them, but here is the real problem-these wines simply do not have substitutes. One producer makes a rich Chateaunuef-du-Pape, the other a sublime Condrieu. No offense intended, but I have yet to taste a wine from California or Australia that captures the rustic elegance and stony complexity of good Chateaunuef-du-Pape, and I see no indication that any producer outside of France is on the right track of producing Viognier up the quality of a good Condrieu. Sure, there are other producers of these wines, but I fear they too will be facing huge price increase.
So what, you say, I don’t drink that stuff anyway! Well try this on for size: I recently added a well-known sparkling wine from California to the line-up. Four weeks ago the wine was $34; yesterday I changed the price to $44. In four weeks! So what, you say again, the bubbles tickle my nose so I don’t drink that stuff either. How about the pleasant little white wine that went up 33% on the new vintage? No problem, you say again, though now a little testily, I drink beer in the summer anyway. If you do drink beer, chances are you have already seen the effects of this story from last November on NPR: “Worldwide hops shortage will make stouts, ales and other specialty microbrews more pricy in coming months. A triple whammy of bad weather in Europe, an increase in the price of barley and a decrease in hops production in the U.S. has lead to a price increase of 20 percent for the most widely grown varieties, to 80 percent for specialty hops. The shortage is particularly hitting microbreweries, since they use more hops than major brewers” Ouch! Inexpensive wine is becoming more expensive, expensive wine is becoming very expensive, and good beer now costs twelve bucks a six-pack!
So what is driving all this? Simply put - everything. I have to admit, a couple of years ago I was amazed out how undervalued wine was in the market place. It was just too cheap, and the price only had one place to go. Many people have suggested that California is the logical recipient of the increased prices of European wine, but that has not been my experience. California wine was always more expensive to begin with, and has been increasing in price just as rapidly as European wine, often more so.
We continue to try and find wines that offer great value, and there are still wonderful bottles under $20, but at the risk of using the most hackneyed phrase that has infiltrated our language in recent memory (excepting, of course, ‘a perfect storm’), thirteen bucks is the new nine, and twenty bucks is the new fifteen!
So what, you say, I don’t drink that stuff anyway! Well try this on for size: I recently added a well-known sparkling wine from California to the line-up. Four weeks ago the wine was $34; yesterday I changed the price to $44. In four weeks! So what, you say again, the bubbles tickle my nose so I don’t drink that stuff either. How about the pleasant little white wine that went up 33% on the new vintage? No problem, you say again, though now a little testily, I drink beer in the summer anyway. If you do drink beer, chances are you have already seen the effects of this story from last November on NPR: “Worldwide hops shortage will make stouts, ales and other specialty microbrews more pricy in coming months. A triple whammy of bad weather in Europe, an increase in the price of barley and a decrease in hops production in the U.S. has lead to a price increase of 20 percent for the most widely grown varieties, to 80 percent for specialty hops. The shortage is particularly hitting microbreweries, since they use more hops than major brewers” Ouch! Inexpensive wine is becoming more expensive, expensive wine is becoming very expensive, and good beer now costs twelve bucks a six-pack!
So what is driving all this? Simply put - everything. I have to admit, a couple of years ago I was amazed out how undervalued wine was in the market place. It was just too cheap, and the price only had one place to go. Many people have suggested that California is the logical recipient of the increased prices of European wine, but that has not been my experience. California wine was always more expensive to begin with, and has been increasing in price just as rapidly as European wine, often more so.
We continue to try and find wines that offer great value, and there are still wonderful bottles under $20, but at the risk of using the most hackneyed phrase that has infiltrated our language in recent memory (excepting, of course, ‘a perfect storm’), thirteen bucks is the new nine, and twenty bucks is the new fifteen!
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Good cheap wine
Recently the New York Times published an article on inexpensive Malbec wine from Argentina. The central message of the article is something that I have been ruminating on for some time and has nothing to do with the tasting notes on the Malbec. Much more interesting than the tasting notes is a concept I have always lived by, which basically comes down to “The best wine is not always the best wine for the occasion.” As a professional Sommeliere I always made a point to buy wines for my list that were drinking well right now, not twenty years from now. Invariably this meant buying vintages less heralded than what what the wine writers were gushing over. What’s the use of drinking the very best wine from the very best vintage if it is infanticide? Often a so called “off-vintage” provides a wonderful wine for current consumption. Similarly, I can’t tell you how many times I have tasted a lineup to find that I prefer the least expensive, or entry level wine, over the wineries “star.”
New York Times writer Eric Asimov puts it well when he says “I have a different theory of cheapness as it applies to wine: Often in New World regions and increasingly in the Old World, a producer’s most expensive red wines are also the most done up — spiffed and polished and reeking of oaken vanilla and chocolate like too much makeup or hair pomade . . . the wines are made from grapes so overripe that the prevailing flavors are of baked fruit and jam. Either way, creating a flavor profile to fit a preconceived notion of an expensive wine diminishes any sense of place and individuality. That’s why I’m often more interested in a producer’s less expensive wines. If you can dodge the minefields of oak substitutes and other winemaking tricks that are intended to imitate expensive wines you just might find some wines in which you can taste simple essences rather than fancy mock-ups.”
For a look at the whole article, here’s the link.
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/06/11/dining/reviews/11wine.html?_r=1&scp=1&sq=malbec&st=nyt&oref=slogin
New York Times writer Eric Asimov puts it well when he says “I have a different theory of cheapness as it applies to wine: Often in New World regions and increasingly in the Old World, a producer’s most expensive red wines are also the most done up — spiffed and polished and reeking of oaken vanilla and chocolate like too much makeup or hair pomade . . . the wines are made from grapes so overripe that the prevailing flavors are of baked fruit and jam. Either way, creating a flavor profile to fit a preconceived notion of an expensive wine diminishes any sense of place and individuality. That’s why I’m often more interested in a producer’s less expensive wines. If you can dodge the minefields of oak substitutes and other winemaking tricks that are intended to imitate expensive wines you just might find some wines in which you can taste simple essences rather than fancy mock-ups.”
For a look at the whole article, here’s the link.
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/06/11/dining/reviews/11wine.html?_r=1&scp=1&sq=malbec&st=nyt&oref=slogin
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
One beautiful thing in common - Philip Bernot
A recent tasting of very different wines yielded a very encouraging result. Three entries from France, four from Italy, and one from California all had one beautiful thing in common: This group of wines was all delightfully dry and relatively low in alcohol (I can already feel mouses clicking by those looking for the latest points score for a 16% Shiraz!). All the entries were impressive wines showing great care in their making; there are no losers here. Every wine was a winner, and largely for the same reason-balance.
All prices as of 5/28/08 and will definitely change!
Moulin De Gassac Guilhem Rouge, 2006, Languedoc, France~ the definition of less is more; this wine is a classic summer red. Perfect mouth-feel and ratio of crisp acidity to sweet-tart fruit, this medium bodied red is a rare thing-a thirst quenching red. On the label it says “Un vin comme autrefois” or roughly “A wine like in the past” - is that ever true! If you are like me and really miss the refreshing and balanced wines of earlier days, you will enjoy this traditional effort. The alcohol checks in at the expected and appreciated 12.5%. The parentage of this wine is impressive as it is an affordable offering from the great Mas de Daumas-Gassac. I served this wine, cool to the touch, with Turkish ground lamb with tomato, mint, and yogurt sauce over lemon-pepper orzo and greens and it flat-out disappeared! It is very hard to explain this sometimes, but what some may find as a fault with this wine (the finish is a little short) is exactly what makes it work so well. You keep going back to the glass for another sip, trying to put your finger on just what’s missing, and before you know it the bottle is empty! Good thing it is such as remarkable value. Top Dog price $13.49
Macon La Roche Vineuse, Domaine Alain Normand, 2005, Macon, France~ Still, even after all of this time, something can come up and smack a smile right on to my face! I frankly didn’t know that wines from this humble, yet revered, region could have this combination of serious playfulness. Everything about this Chardonnay is special, and every time you taste it’s a treat. Just as the fruit decides to reveal itself as another charming, but simple, quaffer it morphs into a lengthy and truly impressive mineral-driven mouthful. You may think the price is a skosh high for this region, but this wine is worth well more than the going rate. A ripe, but totally balanced, 13% alcohol by volume. I have harped on this before, but if you like the taste of magic in your wine, you have to seek out small, individual producers like Domaine Alain Normand
Another winner from Roy Cloud & Co. at Vintage ’59 Imports-I’m a big fan.
Top Dog price approximately $24.00
Montirius Cotes-du-Rhone, 2006, France~ If you like to buy Cotes-du-Rhone as a fruity little quaffer that you don’t have to think about, please do not buy this wine! I was struck by the shear size and formidable profile of this 100% Grenache wine; yet it is all in @ 14% alcohol. There was a time that that number was the ceiling, now we see headache-in-a-bottle table red wines pushing 16.5%! It is for a very good reason I rail against those high-alcohol, high-extract reds. This domaine is biodynamic and you will not find excessive chemical stabilizers or other shortcuts in the wine. Those massive, jammy wines need a lot of chemical help to keep them from exploding in the bottle, and you pay the price for that the next day. I raved about a previous effort from this fascinating winery, and then had an unfortunate experience with another wine, but I always felt like this property was one to watch (They are just as proud of their approach to waste water treatment as their vineyard techniques!). Montirius has nailed it with this mineral-and-earth driven Rhone wine-perfectly dry with just the fruit necessary and no more. Apparently I am not alone in my appreciation of this family-run domaine as I hear the French Ambassador to the US is a big fan. A value without compare; let this wine breathe for hours and hours. Seriously, twelve hours is about right. Check their website for a nice primer on Biodynamics. Vintage ’59 Imports strikes again! Top Dog price approximately $15.00
Valpolicella Classico Superiore “Ripasso,” Marchese Biscarodo, 2003, Italy~
This is the first of three wines from this place. In the “Ripasso” style, this means that the wine gets a further fermentation on the lees, or expended skins, of the intensely ripe Amarone grapes. This adds body, grip, and a bit of sweetness to the wine. Even in the blazing hot 2003 vintage this wine clocks in at a reasonable13% alcohol helping the preserve the silky nature of the palate. The raisin-like finish more of a suggestion than a statement and you are left with a satisfying mouth feel. Fine, fun, and fairly priced. Inquire
Valpolicella Classico Superiore “Ripasso,” La Giaretta, 2005, Italy~ this is my kind of wine, like the Montirius you could instantly tell that this wine was alive. The first sniff is anything but promising, somewhat feral really. But I was pleasantly surprised to get a whiff of tobacco, cedar, and leather aromas that seem rare in today’s wines, having been replaced by the berries. This wine goes through more changes during 90 minutes in a decanter than the poor schmuck in a werewolf movie; so buy this one only if you are willing to work with it. This brawny beauty has a very dynamic range of flavors and its high notes, shimmering like a Philly Jo Jones high-hat, made it stand out from the group of other Valpolicelli. The bright high register acids and aromatics gave this wine a depth that was extremely impressive even after it was opened for 24 hours, not uncommon for a youthful red like this. While I don’t know this winery well, I’m sure they utilize traditional and modern techniques without prejudice to create their wine, and the result is warmly traditional without being slavish. This type of wine should be above the norm in alcohol, and it is at 13.5%, but the alcohol is never a signature in the wine. Top Dog price approximately $20.00
Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Roberto Mazzi & figli, 2005, Italy~ As my friend said while we tasted this one “That Marc de Grazia has struck a deal with the devil!” I have had the same thought myself. Importer Marc de Grazia has an unerring ability to bring us exciting and satisfying wine that could never be mistaken for anything but Vino d’Italia; it is easy to envision a Robert Johnson-like crossroads deal going down between Marco and the Prince of Darkness. The only thing I ask is to keep it up! Everything you want in a Vapolicella is in this wine, and in all the right proportions. I ultimately default to the La Giaretta for its rustic appeal, but this wine is first rate and highly recommended. Alcohol is 13% by volume. Inquire
Propieta Sperino Uvaggio, Piedmonte, 2004, Italy ~ we didn’t know a thing about this one, other than the beautiful and classy label, until we cracked it. Great wine lets you know that it’s in the house, and this one got my attention immediately. This region has many beautiful vineyard sites that have historically made truly impressive wines and have now gone into neglect. Propieta Sperino is from the village of Lesono, and this site is now producing wine again after a fifty-year hiatus. This effort is palpably exciting, and touches all the bases for a Nebbiolo-based wine, and never with clunky, excess weight. Native grapes Vespolina and Croatina round out the blend. Extraordinary fine tannins and crisp fruit on the palate follow a rich and expressive aroma. Let it breathe for at least eight hours to flesh out the superb fruit and tame the acidity, and serve at a cool temperature. This wine would be a savvy buy for the cellar, as I believe it is fully the equal of other great Nebbiolos that cost twice as much. This is precisely the type of perfectly proportioned wine that ages into something altogether superior. Exciting and impressive stuff, with a completely focused 13% alcohol. Top Dog price approximately $26.00
Woodward-Graff Cabernet Sauvignon “A-frame Vineyard” 2002, Chalone appellation, California ~ as I am writing this on Memorial Day, I hereby nominate this wine for some kind of a medal. This is perhaps the most courageous Cabernet I have tasted in recent memory, and I will tell you why: First, the wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is simply amazing to me that many consumers think that blends are some kind of new trend in the wine business; it’s likely that the wine Jesus created from water was some kind of blend. Yet if you have Cabernet of this quality why not ring the bell-loudly! And ring loudly it does in this unabashedly old-school California wine. The Chalone bench in Monterey County was planted with Cabernet in the 70’s, and the original owners of that historic name produce this wine. Sadly the wine that actually carries the Chalone name now is often a bad joke, having been marginalized by the evil Diageo Co., the same folks that ruined Veuve Clicquot Champagne. Second, is the bone-dry treatment of the lovely fruit. If you have never had a traditional style California Cabernet, with it’s the dry, round, olive–like fruit character and nothing that would be more at home in the center of a doughnut, you will probably hate this wine. But if you fondly remember the great wines of the 70’s, the wines that put California squarely on the world stage and many of which show beautifully to this day, than you will no doubt love this balanced offering. Alcohol is 14.3%, which is the highest of this group, but never does it present in jammy, unwieldy fruit; just what is necessary. Inquire
I could have filled pages writing about the character of each of these wines, but the central theme is this: When the alcohol is in correct proportion to the overall structure of the wine it’s magic time. No need to break out the peanut butter and bread for this group; there isn’t a hint of jammy fruit in any bottle here. Are they “easy to drink?” Let me put it to you this way-it’s “easy to eat” at McDonalds, but that doesn’t make it satisfying. Wines like this are for people who want to be engaged by what’s in their glass and will take the extra time to show the wine at its best. There was no reason to suspect that this set of wines would be anything less than wonderful, I’m sure no one in this lineup ever hired a focus group to “help” them make wine. It is becoming quite discouraging, however, to see who is juicing-up the sugar and alcohol levels in their wine to add sweet, thick, boring fruit. Nothing like that here, just complex, fascinating wine-wine like from the past.
All prices as of 5/28/08 and will definitely change!
Moulin De Gassac Guilhem Rouge, 2006, Languedoc, France~ the definition of less is more; this wine is a classic summer red. Perfect mouth-feel and ratio of crisp acidity to sweet-tart fruit, this medium bodied red is a rare thing-a thirst quenching red. On the label it says “Un vin comme autrefois” or roughly “A wine like in the past” - is that ever true! If you are like me and really miss the refreshing and balanced wines of earlier days, you will enjoy this traditional effort. The alcohol checks in at the expected and appreciated 12.5%. The parentage of this wine is impressive as it is an affordable offering from the great Mas de Daumas-Gassac. I served this wine, cool to the touch, with Turkish ground lamb with tomato, mint, and yogurt sauce over lemon-pepper orzo and greens and it flat-out disappeared! It is very hard to explain this sometimes, but what some may find as a fault with this wine (the finish is a little short) is exactly what makes it work so well. You keep going back to the glass for another sip, trying to put your finger on just what’s missing, and before you know it the bottle is empty! Good thing it is such as remarkable value. Top Dog price $13.49
Macon La Roche Vineuse, Domaine Alain Normand, 2005, Macon, France~ Still, even after all of this time, something can come up and smack a smile right on to my face! I frankly didn’t know that wines from this humble, yet revered, region could have this combination of serious playfulness. Everything about this Chardonnay is special, and every time you taste it’s a treat. Just as the fruit decides to reveal itself as another charming, but simple, quaffer it morphs into a lengthy and truly impressive mineral-driven mouthful. You may think the price is a skosh high for this region, but this wine is worth well more than the going rate. A ripe, but totally balanced, 13% alcohol by volume. I have harped on this before, but if you like the taste of magic in your wine, you have to seek out small, individual producers like Domaine Alain Normand
Another winner from Roy Cloud & Co. at Vintage ’59 Imports-I’m a big fan.
Top Dog price approximately $24.00
Montirius Cotes-du-Rhone, 2006, France~ If you like to buy Cotes-du-Rhone as a fruity little quaffer that you don’t have to think about, please do not buy this wine! I was struck by the shear size and formidable profile of this 100% Grenache wine; yet it is all in @ 14% alcohol. There was a time that that number was the ceiling, now we see headache-in-a-bottle table red wines pushing 16.5%! It is for a very good reason I rail against those high-alcohol, high-extract reds. This domaine is biodynamic and you will not find excessive chemical stabilizers or other shortcuts in the wine. Those massive, jammy wines need a lot of chemical help to keep them from exploding in the bottle, and you pay the price for that the next day. I raved about a previous effort from this fascinating winery, and then had an unfortunate experience with another wine, but I always felt like this property was one to watch (They are just as proud of their approach to waste water treatment as their vineyard techniques!). Montirius has nailed it with this mineral-and-earth driven Rhone wine-perfectly dry with just the fruit necessary and no more. Apparently I am not alone in my appreciation of this family-run domaine as I hear the French Ambassador to the US is a big fan. A value without compare; let this wine breathe for hours and hours. Seriously, twelve hours is about right. Check their website for a nice primer on Biodynamics. Vintage ’59 Imports strikes again! Top Dog price approximately $15.00
Valpolicella Classico Superiore “Ripasso,” Marchese Biscarodo, 2003, Italy~
This is the first of three wines from this place. In the “Ripasso” style, this means that the wine gets a further fermentation on the lees, or expended skins, of the intensely ripe Amarone grapes. This adds body, grip, and a bit of sweetness to the wine. Even in the blazing hot 2003 vintage this wine clocks in at a reasonable13% alcohol helping the preserve the silky nature of the palate. The raisin-like finish more of a suggestion than a statement and you are left with a satisfying mouth feel. Fine, fun, and fairly priced. Inquire
Valpolicella Classico Superiore “Ripasso,” La Giaretta, 2005, Italy~ this is my kind of wine, like the Montirius you could instantly tell that this wine was alive. The first sniff is anything but promising, somewhat feral really. But I was pleasantly surprised to get a whiff of tobacco, cedar, and leather aromas that seem rare in today’s wines, having been replaced by the berries. This wine goes through more changes during 90 minutes in a decanter than the poor schmuck in a werewolf movie; so buy this one only if you are willing to work with it. This brawny beauty has a very dynamic range of flavors and its high notes, shimmering like a Philly Jo Jones high-hat, made it stand out from the group of other Valpolicelli. The bright high register acids and aromatics gave this wine a depth that was extremely impressive even after it was opened for 24 hours, not uncommon for a youthful red like this. While I don’t know this winery well, I’m sure they utilize traditional and modern techniques without prejudice to create their wine, and the result is warmly traditional without being slavish. This type of wine should be above the norm in alcohol, and it is at 13.5%, but the alcohol is never a signature in the wine. Top Dog price approximately $20.00
Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Roberto Mazzi & figli, 2005, Italy~ As my friend said while we tasted this one “That Marc de Grazia has struck a deal with the devil!” I have had the same thought myself. Importer Marc de Grazia has an unerring ability to bring us exciting and satisfying wine that could never be mistaken for anything but Vino d’Italia; it is easy to envision a Robert Johnson-like crossroads deal going down between Marco and the Prince of Darkness. The only thing I ask is to keep it up! Everything you want in a Vapolicella is in this wine, and in all the right proportions. I ultimately default to the La Giaretta for its rustic appeal, but this wine is first rate and highly recommended. Alcohol is 13% by volume. Inquire
Propieta Sperino Uvaggio, Piedmonte, 2004, Italy ~ we didn’t know a thing about this one, other than the beautiful and classy label, until we cracked it. Great wine lets you know that it’s in the house, and this one got my attention immediately. This region has many beautiful vineyard sites that have historically made truly impressive wines and have now gone into neglect. Propieta Sperino is from the village of Lesono, and this site is now producing wine again after a fifty-year hiatus. This effort is palpably exciting, and touches all the bases for a Nebbiolo-based wine, and never with clunky, excess weight. Native grapes Vespolina and Croatina round out the blend. Extraordinary fine tannins and crisp fruit on the palate follow a rich and expressive aroma. Let it breathe for at least eight hours to flesh out the superb fruit and tame the acidity, and serve at a cool temperature. This wine would be a savvy buy for the cellar, as I believe it is fully the equal of other great Nebbiolos that cost twice as much. This is precisely the type of perfectly proportioned wine that ages into something altogether superior. Exciting and impressive stuff, with a completely focused 13% alcohol. Top Dog price approximately $26.00
Woodward-Graff Cabernet Sauvignon “A-frame Vineyard” 2002, Chalone appellation, California ~ as I am writing this on Memorial Day, I hereby nominate this wine for some kind of a medal. This is perhaps the most courageous Cabernet I have tasted in recent memory, and I will tell you why: First, the wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is simply amazing to me that many consumers think that blends are some kind of new trend in the wine business; it’s likely that the wine Jesus created from water was some kind of blend. Yet if you have Cabernet of this quality why not ring the bell-loudly! And ring loudly it does in this unabashedly old-school California wine. The Chalone bench in Monterey County was planted with Cabernet in the 70’s, and the original owners of that historic name produce this wine. Sadly the wine that actually carries the Chalone name now is often a bad joke, having been marginalized by the evil Diageo Co., the same folks that ruined Veuve Clicquot Champagne. Second, is the bone-dry treatment of the lovely fruit. If you have never had a traditional style California Cabernet, with it’s the dry, round, olive–like fruit character and nothing that would be more at home in the center of a doughnut, you will probably hate this wine. But if you fondly remember the great wines of the 70’s, the wines that put California squarely on the world stage and many of which show beautifully to this day, than you will no doubt love this balanced offering. Alcohol is 14.3%, which is the highest of this group, but never does it present in jammy, unwieldy fruit; just what is necessary. Inquire
I could have filled pages writing about the character of each of these wines, but the central theme is this: When the alcohol is in correct proportion to the overall structure of the wine it’s magic time. No need to break out the peanut butter and bread for this group; there isn’t a hint of jammy fruit in any bottle here. Are they “easy to drink?” Let me put it to you this way-it’s “easy to eat” at McDonalds, but that doesn’t make it satisfying. Wines like this are for people who want to be engaged by what’s in their glass and will take the extra time to show the wine at its best. There was no reason to suspect that this set of wines would be anything less than wonderful, I’m sure no one in this lineup ever hired a focus group to “help” them make wine. It is becoming quite discouraging, however, to see who is juicing-up the sugar and alcohol levels in their wine to add sweet, thick, boring fruit. Nothing like that here, just complex, fascinating wine-wine like from the past.
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Great Bordeaux - and why we don't sell them - Philip Bernot
I like the wines of Bordeaux, but have never been “in-love” with them as I am with wines from other parts of France. I have tasted many top-quality wines from Bordeaux from vintages ranging over fifty years. I have never had 1947 Cheval Blanc, 1945 Mouton Rothschild, 1928 Margaux, 1920 Lafite, or 1904 Haut Brion, or any wine from the 1800’s. Any Bordeaux wine, I mean. I have never visited Bordeaux; but I don’t feel bad about it. My feeling has always been this: These wines, especially the great ones, rarely shine their light of greatness on the observer. Often when you taste Bordeaux it’s impressive, but I’m rarely blown-away. I know this because when the stars align and you do taste great Bordeaux, in the right setting, when the wine is showing at top-form, it is amazing. When that light shines on you it’s like those searchlights at the new Chevy dealer - illuminating to say the least! But those experiences are few and far between. More often I have what happened today- a really nice, well-known wine from 2004 that I would sell for about $175 a bottle. It was really good, but I think for most people the better part of two C-notes is a lot to ask. Not that 175 bucks is the high end; far from it. The best wines from the 2005 vintage could be $3,500-$5,000. That is not for a case but a bottle. And that’s if you can find it; the list of hedge fund managers willing to slip a $60,000 case of wine into the boot of their gold-plated Bentley Flying Spur is a long one; thankfully that list is getting shorter everyday!
So we have a few Bordeaux wines. Like everything I buy I tend to seek out the properties that offer exceptional value. The difference between the fifty dollar bottle and the hundred and fifty dollar bottle is often quite small. And what about those high-flyers? I would love to tell you that we churn through hundreds of cases of first and second growth wines-but we don’t. It is literally a different business, and you are going head-to-head with mega-stores in mega-markets. In other words, a lock to lose for us.
And what about those wines I do love? I think Burgundy is the end-all, and you can still turn up some remarkable values. The best wines from there, however, are hideously expensive. But man-oh-man is there amazing wine from the south for the price! I am crazy about the delicious wines from Provence, Languedoc-Rousillon, and the Rhone. There are some pretty amazing values from Bordeaux as well, but I just love the earthy connection that the wines from the south have. Stop by sometime and talk to me about it; I always have something fun from those places.
So we have a few Bordeaux wines. Like everything I buy I tend to seek out the properties that offer exceptional value. The difference between the fifty dollar bottle and the hundred and fifty dollar bottle is often quite small. And what about those high-flyers? I would love to tell you that we churn through hundreds of cases of first and second growth wines-but we don’t. It is literally a different business, and you are going head-to-head with mega-stores in mega-markets. In other words, a lock to lose for us.
And what about those wines I do love? I think Burgundy is the end-all, and you can still turn up some remarkable values. The best wines from there, however, are hideously expensive. But man-oh-man is there amazing wine from the south for the price! I am crazy about the delicious wines from Provence, Languedoc-Rousillon, and the Rhone. There are some pretty amazing values from Bordeaux as well, but I just love the earthy connection that the wines from the south have. Stop by sometime and talk to me about it; I always have something fun from those places.
Sunday, May 11, 2008
A nice compliment/more Moshin - Philip Bernot
I recently posted a blog about the marvelous wines from Moshin Vineyards and the dynamic Rick Moshin. One of the things I love about the wine business is the many very smart people you meet-all doing something they love. In chatting with Rick he mentioned how the heavily extracted wines that are currently popular need so much more chemical stabilizing, so I asked if he could send me a few words on it:
Hello Philip,
Thanks for the great words in your blog. I said I would get back to you about the SO2 levels in my wines. SO2 levels in wines follow some recommended level depending on the pH of the wine. The lower the pH at bottling, the less amount of free sulpher is required. What we do at Moshin is to capture the acidity and pH at harvest, thus making our wines requirements for sulfites additions low from conception.
Also reduced oxygen levels in the wine due to little or no pumping helps keep our total SO2 levels in the measures of 20 to 50 PPM. We also work in the vineyards to reduce malic acid production in the berries. Thus after ML we maintain lower pH levels in the wine because of less malic acid. If you have more questions let me know.
Good luck with selling Moshin Wines in your store. Happy Summer! Rick Moshin
Thanks for the compliment Rick - Thanks for thinking that I am a LOT smarter than I really am! LOVE the wines, BTW :)
Philip
Hello Philip,
Thanks for the great words in your blog. I said I would get back to you about the SO2 levels in my wines. SO2 levels in wines follow some recommended level depending on the pH of the wine. The lower the pH at bottling, the less amount of free sulpher is required. What we do at Moshin is to capture the acidity and pH at harvest, thus making our wines requirements for sulfites additions low from conception.
Also reduced oxygen levels in the wine due to little or no pumping helps keep our total SO2 levels in the measures of 20 to 50 PPM. We also work in the vineyards to reduce malic acid production in the berries. Thus after ML we maintain lower pH levels in the wine because of less malic acid. If you have more questions let me know.
Good luck with selling Moshin Wines in your store. Happy Summer! Rick Moshin
Thanks for the compliment Rick - Thanks for thinking that I am a LOT smarter than I really am! LOVE the wines, BTW :)
Philip
Wednesday, April 30, 2008
Wine Buying 101 - Philip Bernot
I think everybody is guilty of this little sin, or would like to be: you are in a store and you see an item that you just know is mis-priced. It should be twenty five dollars, but there it is at $10.99. You want to tell someone “I think the price is wrong here!” but hey, things are going up every day and it harder to make ends meet. You scoop up the item, all of it, and hope you don’t get busted before you get out of the store. The same is true for wine; only different. Two to three times a month I taste something that is wickedly under-priced to its value and I buy it with gusto. I tell the customers who want to hear it about the amazing value, but let’s be honest-not everyone wants to hear it. Some folks buy what they buy strictly on price. Many shoppers, and not just here, are deeply suspicious of items they think are “too cheap.” Three things happened today that made me want to write about this:
One: We have been selling a wonderful wine from Spain; so much in fact that it has become the top-selling wine in the store in the year 2008. I’m not surprised-from the moment I tried it I thought it was an obscenely good value. I just got word that the new vintage is slated for a price increase-up to 90%! Obviously this is more than currency fluctuation and transportation costs. To be honest the new price is really more in line with the quality, but we were happy to sell as much as we did when it was cheap.
Two: One of our customers who knows his Italian wine very well bought an interesting red wine from Southern Italy on our recommendation. The wine was being discounted by our wholesaler for one reason only-nobody there knew how to sell it. It is amazing wine and we are selling it for an even more amazing price. The customer and I came to the same conclusion-this is a fifty-plus dollar bottle of wine-at less than fifteen dollars!
Three: I tasted a line of premium California wines, of which the least expensive would set you back about thirty-five bucks; and it went up from there. The resume of the winemaker is one of very well-known, but commercial, wines. I wouldn’t give you thirty-five cents for all four that I tried.
If you want to know the names of the first two wines, stop by and see me. The last wines I don’t ever want to talk about again!
One: We have been selling a wonderful wine from Spain; so much in fact that it has become the top-selling wine in the store in the year 2008. I’m not surprised-from the moment I tried it I thought it was an obscenely good value. I just got word that the new vintage is slated for a price increase-up to 90%! Obviously this is more than currency fluctuation and transportation costs. To be honest the new price is really more in line with the quality, but we were happy to sell as much as we did when it was cheap.
Two: One of our customers who knows his Italian wine very well bought an interesting red wine from Southern Italy on our recommendation. The wine was being discounted by our wholesaler for one reason only-nobody there knew how to sell it. It is amazing wine and we are selling it for an even more amazing price. The customer and I came to the same conclusion-this is a fifty-plus dollar bottle of wine-at less than fifteen dollars!
Three: I tasted a line of premium California wines, of which the least expensive would set you back about thirty-five bucks; and it went up from there. The resume of the winemaker is one of very well-known, but commercial, wines. I wouldn’t give you thirty-five cents for all four that I tried.
If you want to know the names of the first two wines, stop by and see me. The last wines I don’t ever want to talk about again!
Saturday, April 26, 2008
More on inexpensive wine - Philip Bernot
Hot on the heels on my previous post is this excellent article in New York Times. If you are passionate about wine then the points in this article hit home. If you are not passionate about wine, but like it for its health and therapeutic effects, then this stuff is still important-maybe more so! Check it out!
http://thepour.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/04/25/does-your-wine-need-viagra/
http://thepour.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/04/25/does-your-wine-need-viagra/
Friday, April 25, 2008
Under ten dollar wine - endangered species? - Philip Bernot
Quite understandably we are hearing a lot more of this recently – “You got any nice wine at or under ten bucks?” Yes, but . . . The under-ten-dollar category for wine is disappearing faster than the polar ice caps. There is, and will always be I suppose, wines under ten dollars. But the wine that was nine dollars last November is now twelve to thirteen. This should surprise no one-why should we be immune to global inflation? By extension this means last years fifteen dollar wine is pushing twenty, and the twenty dollar wine is pushing twenty-five. It may help to reshape your expectations or parameters. There seems to be widely held myth that wines from South America are the best values in the market place. That is simply not my experience. They spill more wine in France in a year than they make in all of South America; naturally there are more and better choices. Ditto for Italy & Spain. California? The wine from the Golden State (my home) historically is and will remain more expensive than those of Europe. It is a different business there, and the cost of doing business is higher. Too, it will definitely help if you are open to grape varieties outside of the big names. Eight-buck Chardonnay from the Central Valley of California is usually worth what it costs-or less. The unknown grape variety from France or Italy may be dramatically undervalued in quality to the price.
How about those big bottles? I think there are some really good values to be had in this arena with some pretty solid selections available for around twelve bucks. We will continue to seek out wines that offer the best value for the money spent, but value is relative. A twenty-five dollar wine can be a great value every bit as much as a nine dollar wine; often more so.
We feel your pain-literally! We are in the same boat and paying much more for the same items than we paid last year.
How about those big bottles? I think there are some really good values to be had in this arena with some pretty solid selections available for around twelve bucks. We will continue to seek out wines that offer the best value for the money spent, but value is relative. A twenty-five dollar wine can be a great value every bit as much as a nine dollar wine; often more so.
We feel your pain-literally! We are in the same boat and paying much more for the same items than we paid last year.
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Stand by your brand? - Philip Bernot
No question about it; we are the most “sold-to” society of all time. Madison Avenue has more impact on most Americans than the street that they actually live on. I doubt that most people even realize the role that advertising plays in their decision making process-and that is just the way the marketers want it. When marketing a brand everything is about market share, and when increasing market share everything is fair game. What does this have to do with the price of Shiraz in Barossa? The fact is that the most enjoyable wines in the world are not from “brands,” but from producers, a subtle yet distinct difference. Producers are actual individuals, families and small groups of like-minded, passionate individuals. These people are more often than not farmers. Brands are the domain of behemoth International Spirit & Wine conglomerates. They are frequently also in other businesses such as hotels or fast food. If there has ever been a group less likely to understand the simple joys of a well-made bottle of wine I don’t know who they are. In that end of the business it is all about increasing market share, or “moving boxes.” Quality is collateral damage. Brands are what you find in the supermarket; producers are what you find in ours and other stores that actually taste what they sell.
The reason I make this distinction is to try to put in perspective continuity. I know it can be frustrating for customers to find a bottle of wine that they like only to return and find out it is no longer available. But there is an inverse relationship between continuity and quality. Simply put, the more of a given wine there is the less likely that it is worth drinking. This is not to say we cannot have extensive runs of very good quality wines. It is to say that the most interesting wines, by their nature, are limited in supply. Too, it is important to remember that wine is a product of a finite growing season, or vintage. It is simply not possible to go back and get more of the 2005 Chateau Fillintheblank when the vintage is sold out. This still seems to surprise many people. Also surprising to many is that wines we have confidently sold can be dropped because of quality differences from vintage to vintage. For quite a while we happily sold an under-ten-dollar Spanish red that was my favorite kind of wine-one that was worth well more than what it cost. The new vintage of the wine was decidedly underwhelming. The biggest problem was that the new wine was not just a weaker vintage but represented a dramatic departure in style-and not for the better. It was still under ten bucks, but now it tasted like it.
Lastly on this subject is how a producer can become a brand in a heartbeat. A trip through the wine aisle in the local Acme supermarket can be a painful experience for me. It is there where I see formerly wonderful names that conjure up warm memories of tastings and visits reduced to commodity brands. The California wine industry is littered with these formerly terrific producers who couldn’t resist the economics of selling their label to a conglomerate who then puts any old swill in the bottle and hopes that takes at least five years for anyone to notice the difference.
Now I’m sure that there are readers out there who are already crying foul and thinking, “Phil, you are just a wine snob.” If that’s what I am than so be it – I’m used to it by now. I spent many years in the high-end of the restaurant business and one thing I learned is this: The Chef who seeks out only the highest quality ingredients, who eschews corner-cutting in their preparation, who has exacting standards that will not allow him or her to serve a meal that smacks of mediocrity; that person is a genius. The person who applies the same standards to wine is a wine snob. Go figure!
The reason I make this distinction is to try to put in perspective continuity. I know it can be frustrating for customers to find a bottle of wine that they like only to return and find out it is no longer available. But there is an inverse relationship between continuity and quality. Simply put, the more of a given wine there is the less likely that it is worth drinking. This is not to say we cannot have extensive runs of very good quality wines. It is to say that the most interesting wines, by their nature, are limited in supply. Too, it is important to remember that wine is a product of a finite growing season, or vintage. It is simply not possible to go back and get more of the 2005 Chateau Fillintheblank when the vintage is sold out. This still seems to surprise many people. Also surprising to many is that wines we have confidently sold can be dropped because of quality differences from vintage to vintage. For quite a while we happily sold an under-ten-dollar Spanish red that was my favorite kind of wine-one that was worth well more than what it cost. The new vintage of the wine was decidedly underwhelming. The biggest problem was that the new wine was not just a weaker vintage but represented a dramatic departure in style-and not for the better. It was still under ten bucks, but now it tasted like it.
Lastly on this subject is how a producer can become a brand in a heartbeat. A trip through the wine aisle in the local Acme supermarket can be a painful experience for me. It is there where I see formerly wonderful names that conjure up warm memories of tastings and visits reduced to commodity brands. The California wine industry is littered with these formerly terrific producers who couldn’t resist the economics of selling their label to a conglomerate who then puts any old swill in the bottle and hopes that takes at least five years for anyone to notice the difference.
Now I’m sure that there are readers out there who are already crying foul and thinking, “Phil, you are just a wine snob.” If that’s what I am than so be it – I’m used to it by now. I spent many years in the high-end of the restaurant business and one thing I learned is this: The Chef who seeks out only the highest quality ingredients, who eschews corner-cutting in their preparation, who has exacting standards that will not allow him or her to serve a meal that smacks of mediocrity; that person is a genius. The person who applies the same standards to wine is a wine snob. Go figure!
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
Chillin' & Grillin'
The warm weather is here, hopefully to stay, and you know what that means: time to break out the grill! And what is the best thing in the whole wide world to match with the first grilled foods of the season?: Italian red wine - especially a zesty Barbera. We are featuring a killer line-up of amazing Italian reds in different styles and prices. Some of these wines are already in stock, others will be here shortly!
D’Angelo Aglianico del Vulture Riserva “Vigna Caselle” 2000, Basilicata ~ Easily those most unusual wine of the group and probably my favorite. This wine is stone-cold old-school with no apologies! The rustic Aglianico grape makes what is essentially the Barolo of the South; D’Angelo is the only producer left making this wine in the traditional style. Fermented and aged in “Botti,” or large, neutral wood casks, the wine presents beautiful spice-scented notes on the nose and robust tannins from the grapes, and not the wood.
Gorgeous wine for true aficionados who cringe at the sweet world-wine paradigm. Serve with goat or other crazy stuff! We got a great buy on this wine and are happy to pass the savings to our customers. About $15.00/btl (Believe me, people pay 4X this much for this quality in Tuscany & Piedmont!)
Bibi Graetz Casamatta 2006, Tuscany ~ This wine is 100% Sangiovese, from various vineyard sites, fermented in stainless steel. Soft, forward fruit makes this a perfect choice for a thick burger or ribs. $16.99/btl.
Bucaro Montepulciano Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2006, Abruzzo ~ Don’t walk. Run down here, RIGHT NOW, and stock up on this delicious wine. Made from organic grapes, this is stand out Montepulciano wine from the grape of the same name. Rich fruit, but even more impressive structure. Make sure you let this wine breathe for 45 minutes or more after opening; it tastes a little fruity and simple on opening but rights itself quickly. VERY LIMITED SUPPLY! $17.99/btl.
Fratelli Seghesio Barbera D’Alba 2006, Piedmont ~ Has there ever been a more perfect wine to serve with roasted yard bird with a spicy-sweet BBQ sauce? The answer is no! Loads of rich, ripe fruit and the crisp acidity you need for tomato-based sauces. $21.99/btl.
Carpineta Fontalpino Montaperto 2005, Tuscany ~ A classically structured wine from a very unusual combination of grapes; this one blends Sangiovese, Alicante, and a little Gamay to excellent results. If you are looking for a fruit-bomb, look elsewhere. This wine has more in common with a top Bordeaux than an overripe Shiraz. Serve with a choice steak. Let it breathe for a couple of hours for best results. $28.79/btl.
Braida Monferratto Rosso “Il Bacialè” 2006, Piedmont ~ Braida is probably the master of Barbera, and this wine is a tour de force (or the equivalent Italian phrase). It may not be typical, but this blend is 60% Barbera, 20% Pinot Noir, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot. This all adds up to 100% delicious! This one should be served with more elaborate grilled dishes to match the complex nature of the wine. $35.00/btl.
Fattoria Montellori Salamartano 1999, Tuscany ~ People happily pay twice this price for Claret-style wines like this from prestigious Bordeaux producers. Equal parts Cabernet and Merlot, this is stylish wine and a great value. Serve this when the grilled fare comes inside to a white table cloth and crystal glasses! Exquisite! $44.99/btl.
We have many other great selections for the grill, including more from Italy!
Note: This post was written by Philip Bernot.
D’Angelo Aglianico del Vulture Riserva “Vigna Caselle” 2000, Basilicata ~ Easily those most unusual wine of the group and probably my favorite. This wine is stone-cold old-school with no apologies! The rustic Aglianico grape makes what is essentially the Barolo of the South; D’Angelo is the only producer left making this wine in the traditional style. Fermented and aged in “Botti,” or large, neutral wood casks, the wine presents beautiful spice-scented notes on the nose and robust tannins from the grapes, and not the wood.
Gorgeous wine for true aficionados who cringe at the sweet world-wine paradigm. Serve with goat or other crazy stuff! We got a great buy on this wine and are happy to pass the savings to our customers. About $15.00/btl (Believe me, people pay 4X this much for this quality in Tuscany & Piedmont!)
Bibi Graetz Casamatta 2006, Tuscany ~ This wine is 100% Sangiovese, from various vineyard sites, fermented in stainless steel. Soft, forward fruit makes this a perfect choice for a thick burger or ribs. $16.99/btl.
Bucaro Montepulciano Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2006, Abruzzo ~ Don’t walk. Run down here, RIGHT NOW, and stock up on this delicious wine. Made from organic grapes, this is stand out Montepulciano wine from the grape of the same name. Rich fruit, but even more impressive structure. Make sure you let this wine breathe for 45 minutes or more after opening; it tastes a little fruity and simple on opening but rights itself quickly. VERY LIMITED SUPPLY! $17.99/btl.
Fratelli Seghesio Barbera D’Alba 2006, Piedmont ~ Has there ever been a more perfect wine to serve with roasted yard bird with a spicy-sweet BBQ sauce? The answer is no! Loads of rich, ripe fruit and the crisp acidity you need for tomato-based sauces. $21.99/btl.
Carpineta Fontalpino Montaperto 2005, Tuscany ~ A classically structured wine from a very unusual combination of grapes; this one blends Sangiovese, Alicante, and a little Gamay to excellent results. If you are looking for a fruit-bomb, look elsewhere. This wine has more in common with a top Bordeaux than an overripe Shiraz. Serve with a choice steak. Let it breathe for a couple of hours for best results. $28.79/btl.
Braida Monferratto Rosso “Il Bacialè” 2006, Piedmont ~ Braida is probably the master of Barbera, and this wine is a tour de force (or the equivalent Italian phrase). It may not be typical, but this blend is 60% Barbera, 20% Pinot Noir, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot. This all adds up to 100% delicious! This one should be served with more elaborate grilled dishes to match the complex nature of the wine. $35.00/btl.
Fattoria Montellori Salamartano 1999, Tuscany ~ People happily pay twice this price for Claret-style wines like this from prestigious Bordeaux producers. Equal parts Cabernet and Merlot, this is stylish wine and a great value. Serve this when the grilled fare comes inside to a white table cloth and crystal glasses! Exquisite! $44.99/btl.
We have many other great selections for the grill, including more from Italy!
Note: This post was written by Philip Bernot.
Tuesday, April 15, 2008
A plea for dry wine - Philip Bernot
If you are new to wine, say you just started sipping in the last ten to twelve years, or you are a very disinterested observer, you may not be aware that there has been a fundamental shift in wine making style in the last decade plus. This shift is especially apparent in the current crop of red wines, but has its roots in a similar phenomenon that started with California Chardonnay. This may be completely irrelevant to you as a wine drinker. Most people like wine for its therapeutic effects and I don’t blame anyone for not wanting to become a student of the game. Wine is a complicated subject and I doubt that most people have the time or inclination to take up the subject. After all, that’s why we are here! The only reason I bring it up is because the trend creates conflict between what consumers say they want and what they really seem to buy and consume. I am talking, of course, about the rising level of sweetness in wine as measured by residual sugar. Naturally occurring sugar in grapes works with yeast to create a byproduct – alcohol, by way of fermentation. When talking about table wines the standard for years was for there to be a fairly complete fermentation that left just trace amounts of residual sugar. This is what defines the term “dry.” Now, especially amongst the new world producers of Australia and California, there is a powerful market trend to leave some unfermented sugar, or even add back some sugar, in the finished wine. Again, the only reason I mention this is because the average customer grimaces at the idea of sweet wine but happily plunks down the pesos for a detectibly sweet Shiraz.
This story illustrates the conundrum perfectly; and would be quite funny if it did not make me want to cry; which it did: This week I tasted a dozen or so wines with Sigfried Pic, Export Director for Rhone Valley producer Ferraton Pere & Fils. The wines were uniformly excellent, and a couple selections were sensational values. As an experiment the folks at Ferraton took one of their dry red wines and added sugar (to approximately 6 grams/ per liter residual sugar, or about twice the level for “dry” and similar to the average Australian Shiraz) back into it, put the wine into the equivalent of a paint mixer, shook it up to integrate the sugar into the wine, and sped off to England for a tasting. Can you imagine doing this at home? I would wager large that most people would find the idea sickening. The UK is known for favoring the traditional, so this is particularly interesting - the tasting group was made up of both casual wine buyers and seasoned wine merchants. Many of the casual tasters went crazy “This is great, so bold!” The veterans were less impressed - “Did you change winemakers?” was the cautious, concerned reaction. It may be very easy to draw the conclusion that the market had spoken and that the buying public prefers sweeter wines. If that were completely true we would still be wearing leisure suits. I guess what I am trying to say is this sweeter style is a trend or a fad more than an absolute. I hope.
More than anything else, though, it is what you lose when you leave this much residual sugar in the wine - complexity. These sweeter wines are one-trick ponies. Lots of people seem to like the trick, but ultimately it is boring. Dry wines allow your mind to fill in the subtle nuances and ultimately are more complex and rewarding. At least in the opinion of this grizzled veteran!
This story illustrates the conundrum perfectly; and would be quite funny if it did not make me want to cry; which it did: This week I tasted a dozen or so wines with Sigfried Pic, Export Director for Rhone Valley producer Ferraton Pere & Fils. The wines were uniformly excellent, and a couple selections were sensational values. As an experiment the folks at Ferraton took one of their dry red wines and added sugar (to approximately 6 grams/ per liter residual sugar, or about twice the level for “dry” and similar to the average Australian Shiraz) back into it, put the wine into the equivalent of a paint mixer, shook it up to integrate the sugar into the wine, and sped off to England for a tasting. Can you imagine doing this at home? I would wager large that most people would find the idea sickening. The UK is known for favoring the traditional, so this is particularly interesting - the tasting group was made up of both casual wine buyers and seasoned wine merchants. Many of the casual tasters went crazy “This is great, so bold!” The veterans were less impressed - “Did you change winemakers?” was the cautious, concerned reaction. It may be very easy to draw the conclusion that the market had spoken and that the buying public prefers sweeter wines. If that were completely true we would still be wearing leisure suits. I guess what I am trying to say is this sweeter style is a trend or a fad more than an absolute. I hope.
More than anything else, though, it is what you lose when you leave this much residual sugar in the wine - complexity. These sweeter wines are one-trick ponies. Lots of people seem to like the trick, but ultimately it is boring. Dry wines allow your mind to fill in the subtle nuances and ultimately are more complex and rewarding. At least in the opinion of this grizzled veteran!
Thursday, March 27, 2008
When Worlds Collide: Sometimes It's Cool!
A few months ago, our crack business team (actual crack use varies) decided that rather than just replicate our wine inventory in both stores, we should allow the inventories to naturally diverge through a series of mutations and adaptations, sort of like Evolution (or Adaptation Over Time, depending upon where your textbooks are printed).
Why pursue this apparently insane idea, which flies in the face of brand continuity? Well, for one thing, instead of hiring moronic clerks who frequently drool, we wasted money by bringing in two wine professionals. Philip and Jane, unlike those idiots Joe and umm....that would be me, actually know what they're doing. So we would be ever stupider than usual to waste their talents.
Secondly, we've noticed that wines sell differently at the two stores. At Elliott Road, we sell a lot more New World wines - stuff from the Americas, Australia, South Africa and New Zealand. At the Marlboro store, we tend to sell more Old World wine from Europe.
We could write a dissertation about this for a diploma mill, and probably get a Ph.D., but who cares? As Rudyard Kipling wrote, "Ours is not to reason why. Ours is but to do and die." Okay, that's depressing. Let's change it to "...ours is but to do and thrive!" There, much better. Kipling was a real buzzkill.
Anyhoo, Jane had a great idea today, which I will hereby steal credit for. We should make sure that the top-selling wines at each store are available at BOTH STORES! So we're going to do that, thanks to my fabulous idea.
We'll still have different selections at the two stores, but we'll make sure that the most popular wines are at both. Brand continuity? BORRRRINNNGGG. When it comes to wine, we say "Vive La Difference!"
By the way, a free bottle of wine to whoever can name the dude in the photo.
Why pursue this apparently insane idea, which flies in the face of brand continuity? Well, for one thing, instead of hiring moronic clerks who frequently drool, we wasted money by bringing in two wine professionals. Philip and Jane, unlike those idiots Joe and umm....that would be me, actually know what they're doing. So we would be ever stupider than usual to waste their talents.
Secondly, we've noticed that wines sell differently at the two stores. At Elliott Road, we sell a lot more New World wines - stuff from the Americas, Australia, South Africa and New Zealand. At the Marlboro store, we tend to sell more Old World wine from Europe.
We could write a dissertation about this for a diploma mill, and probably get a Ph.D., but who cares? As Rudyard Kipling wrote, "Ours is not to reason why. Ours is but to do and die." Okay, that's depressing. Let's change it to "...ours is but to do and thrive!" There, much better. Kipling was a real buzzkill.
Anyhoo, Jane had a great idea today, which I will hereby steal credit for. We should make sure that the top-selling wines at each store are available at BOTH STORES! So we're going to do that, thanks to my fabulous idea.
We'll still have different selections at the two stores, but we'll make sure that the most popular wines are at both. Brand continuity? BORRRRINNNGGG. When it comes to wine, we say "Vive La Difference!"
By the way, a free bottle of wine to whoever can name the dude in the photo.
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Well tie me kangaroo down, mate!
People who know me know that I am a little less excited about Australian wine than others seem to be (he says showing a complete mastery of understatement). While this may surprise some people, it is not that unusual for a person with my experience in this business. In fact it is the very characteristics of most Australian wine that appeals to John Q. Public that turns me and other grizzled veterans off; especially when we talk about Shiraz. Most of these wines are just too sweet and terminally lack structure. “Loads of jammy fruit” is the code phrase for me to hightail it in the opposite direction. So imagine my surprise when I tasted not one but two remarkable wines from down under in a recent tasting. Honestly, if there were more beautifully structured wines like this from Australia I would be a big fan. I doubt that will happen, but in the mean time these two are well worth mentioning:
West Cape Howe Chardonnay “Styx Gulley,” Western Australia- The first thing that greets you when you put the glass to your nose is the rich smell of toasted barrel. Thankfully, though, it is a fully integrated aroma that does not overpower. The palate rewards you with focused, dry Chardonnay fruit of a very forthright nature. More to the style of Burgundy, the overall impression is of an extremely well-crafted wine that is a stone-cold value at $20.69/btl. Highly recommended!
Picardy Pinot Noir, Western Australia- Never, ever did I expect to taste Pinot from Australia this focused and balanced. Undeniably in the Burgundy style, this beautifully made wine features earthy terroir in the nose and elegant balance on the palate. This is one of the few wines made outside of Burgundy that captures the true essence of Pinot Noir – a great value at $32.84/btl.
prices subject to change without notice.
West Cape Howe Chardonnay “Styx Gulley,” Western Australia- The first thing that greets you when you put the glass to your nose is the rich smell of toasted barrel. Thankfully, though, it is a fully integrated aroma that does not overpower. The palate rewards you with focused, dry Chardonnay fruit of a very forthright nature. More to the style of Burgundy, the overall impression is of an extremely well-crafted wine that is a stone-cold value at $20.69/btl. Highly recommended!
Picardy Pinot Noir, Western Australia- Never, ever did I expect to taste Pinot from Australia this focused and balanced. Undeniably in the Burgundy style, this beautifully made wine features earthy terroir in the nose and elegant balance on the palate. This is one of the few wines made outside of Burgundy that captures the true essence of Pinot Noir – a great value at $32.84/btl.
prices subject to change without notice.
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